Pictures HERE!
So, we left Ooty the next morning. We took a bus to Calicut. The bus ride was long and painful, and very stressful. We arrived late in Calicut so we decided to stay there for the night…
The next morning we took a train to Mangalore, When we arrived there. We found out that our next train wasnt leaving until 10:30 at night…so we went to grab some food, then back at the train station…
I was not able to get a Sleeper tickets to go to Delhi. I had to buy a General ticket. Sometimes when you buy a general ticket, you are able to talk to the train conductor, and you are able to upgrade your ticket to a Sleeper one, if there is place available…I met a young indian guy who was very friendly with me, and helped me find the train conductor once the train arrived, he explained him my situation..(That I was doing a 40 hours train ride to Delhi, and had only a general ticket)…
Marylin had also a general ticket, but she was getting out in Goa, which is only a 5-6 hours train ride… crappy, but totally possible to do in general section…
The verdict with the Train conductor was that there was a sleeper ticket available from Goa to Delhi, Great! exactly whatI wanted…So we got in the train, in the general section…Im not sure if you know what the general section of an indian train is like, but let me explain you:
The general section is the cheapest way to travel in the train…This is where all the poor, the homeless, and the nasty stuff happen. The compartment is made for 50 peoples, and there is probably 3 times that much…you are lucky if you have a seat…(if we can call those things seats)
Anyway, im sure you get the idea…
Even the ticket guy doesnt even come in to verify if people have tickets…So if you are in for a long journey, there is no way to survive in there… But for a few hours, its definately the cheapest way to move around…
So we got to the Goa train station at about 4h30 in the morning, I said goodbye to marylin. And ran into the sleeper compartment. I found my bed, layed down to sleep, only to be woken up 5 minutes later by a guy with a reserved ticket for that bed… I didnt think it was possible since the train conductor told me it was free from Goa…So I went to talk to him again. Apparently he misunderstood when we said I needed a ticket from Goa to Delhi. He though I wanted Mangalore-> Goa…The seat was in fact reserved from Goa to Delhi…great!
The security told me to get out at the next station and go back to general…there was no way in the world I was going to do 40 hours in general…So I argued a little bit, and he told me to take the crappy little seat at the end of the wagon, next to the smelly bathroom, and stay there….
I would be sitting, but at least I would be alone…without all the nastyness of general section….
So I stayed there sitting, covered with a blanket, trying my best to sleep…
At 1pm the next day. I saw my helpful friend from the Mangalore station. And he offered me his bed, since he already had a good night of sleep; Awesome! It was totally illegal for me to be there, since I didnt have a sleeper ticket, but I didnt care much at that point…
I got a few hours of rest, then woke up, had dinner, and started talking with the people around…
Everyone around was very friendly and nice. I had some of the best conversation with random strangers…It was very nice. Especially my Mangalore friend, he was the best. We talked until the early hours of the morning…Im really glad I met him! Everything was amazing until:
I was having a cigarettes in the bathroom. The bathroom, and the door to outside are the smoking spots in the train, it is officially not legal, but no one care…everyone does it.
So I was there, very late at night, having a smoke. Then suddently, someone starts banging on the door really hard. I opened the door, then 3 cops with rifle rushed in. I was like “WTF??”
The cops started telling me that I was not allowed to smoke inside, and that I had to give them 3000rupees for the fine (this is a lot of money here in india, about 70$CAN)…They were also very drunk, I could smell the crappy indian alchool all over them… oh and they barely spoke engligh….
So I tried to tell them I was sorry, that I didnt know. But they didnt understand what I was saying. They just kept saying “3000rupees”, pointing the rifle toward me…
At that point I knew I had to give them money, or else I would be totally fucked…I did have the 3000rupees on me, but I would never give them such amount. So I took my wallet, and gave them everything that was inside, which was about 200 and something rupees, and I told them that this was everything I had on me. (I keep all my big money in a money belt under my shirt) They kept saying “3000 rupees”…I started getting angry, telling them again that this was everything I had….
Then they asked me for my ticket! Awesome, I have a “General” tickets, and im here standing in the Sleeper wagon, I was in for some big trouble there! But I remembered that my friend gave me his ticket earlier, so I wouldnt forget the bed number…So I got the tickets from my pocket, looked at it really quiclky, only to realise that there was my friend’s name on it, a pure Indian name…(dammit!)
I showed them the tickets really quickly, saying “see this is my bed, #59, im right there…” only to put back the ticket in my pocket before they could realize it wasnt mine….and it worked like a charm!
Then they told me to go back in the bathroom, to have a smoke (yeah really)… and finally left…
I hate crooked cops…
After talking to my indian friend, he told me that this was very common in the train late at night. Cops get drunk, then they walk around and cause trouble with foreingers…Trying to get money…
Anyway, my friend was getting out a few hours after, we went to talk to the train conductor, to change the name on the ticket, and to make it official that this was my seat now…Everything was finally sorted out!
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So after 40 hours of train, I finally made it to Delhi. I got out of the train station, met up with a guy from Poland, who was going in the same area as me. Shared a rickshaw to the hotel. And finally had a real rest!
Later in the evening, I went to grab a chai in a store, and met a girl from Amsterdam, who kindly invited me to join her and her friend for dinner….so we went to eat and I went back to bed…
The next day, me and her went around town, we checked the lotus temple, ishkon temple, connaught place, the underground market and the city palace…it was a very productive day actually!
After talking with a few tourist, I found out that there is a new law for people holding multiple entry indian visa, like mine. The new law consist of: If you have a multiple entry visa, and leave india, you have to wait 2 months to be able to get back in the country…This was very bad for me since I booked flight tickets for 1 month in Sri Lanka in april….That mean that I wouldnt be able to get back in india for the last month of my trip, and I would miss my flight back home….to get back in before the 2 months time frame, I needed a special permission from the indian government, great!
A portugeese girl I met also had to go to the office to get a visa extension, so we went together the next day…The office was very chaotic and disorganised, as we expected…It took about 4 hours to get everything sorted out, but we made it, so its all good…
Later that night, I was walking down the main bazaar street with some friends, when out of nowhere, a guy stopped walking in front of me, and of course, I bumped into him…When that happend, I felt something in my back pocket. I turned around, only to see an Indian guy holding my wallet in his hand…I got so angry, and quiclky pushed the guy. I was able to make him drop my wallet, then he ran away… Gabriel:1 Pickpockets:0…..
This event made me really pissed off, but I was happy with the way and how quick I reacted..
Anyway, the next day I went to visit the Red fort, and the big Mosque (which can hold 25 000 people)…The place is huge, the biggest mosque in india. It is beautiful!
Delhi is a very nice place, full of parks and nice buildings. The city look very modern and “western style”….. They also have great transportation system. Their Metro is actually cleaner, more effective and better organized than the one in montreal! I love it!
Old Delhi is actually like the india Im used to, dirty, smelly, overcrowded and polluted…but I still love it for some reason..
Also, the food is amazing, and cheap…
But yeah, marylin is flying here tomorrow, then we will head to Rishikesh the next day…
To be continued…
Namaste